Zebra Dress: Post #2 (by Grace)

So today was step two in the dressmaking process - pattern cutting! 

First, though, let's take a moment to discuss the mysteries of vintage pattern sizing. Vintage patterns come in one size per envelope, as opposed to today where you have the choice of a few sizes and don't have to decide which you'll use until it comes to cutting.

Generally, we can afford to ignore vintage dress sizing. Just go by your measurements. This particular 1970 pattern is apparently "Size 12". Now, I am a size 10 - sometimes 8 on top. Let us compare my measurements with the ones given for a size 12:

                  Bust               Waist               Hips

Pattern:        34"              25+1/2"             36"

Me:               34"              27+1/2"             36"

Perfect... until you get to the waist. There's a gaping 2" difference between mine and the standard 1970 lady measurement. I don't think it's that I have a weird body shape, or it's a one-off with this pattern. It's been the case with most of the vintage dresses I have made. Waists were (proportionately) smaller! My mum always said it but I thought she just meant I wasn't very trim.

I had to measure across the pattern pieces to see how wide the waist actually was...

Turns out there's a lot of ease (give) in the waist of this dress, so I opted not to add anything to the width of the pattern. It would have become more of a box shape.

This dress is made of 3 main pieces (2xB and A cut on fold for those interested! Plus facing for the neck.)

I did a quick lay-out to make sure I had enough fabric...

Then I ironed the ridiculously crinkly pieces and fabric. Turning off the steam first of course! No-one wants soggy tissue paper :/

 

 Next stage - cutting out the facing pieces (i.e. lining around the inside neck) and trimming the excess around the pattern.

 

I folded the fabric length ways, right (print) sides together, then pinned the pattern pieces in place.

Working on the living room floor ain't so glam but there simply wasn't a table long enough!

Lastly I transferred all the markings (such as darts) from the pattern to the fabric, using tailors tacks and by cutting nicks.

Tomorrow I'll have to head into town to buy a zip, then I'll start pressing the darts and sewing everything together! The pictures will be a bit prettier once I remove the pattern pieces and you can see the lovely zebras.